The career of chef Jean-Marie Cadot echoes that of French food in Dallas: He started out at pioneering Calluaud’s, was executive chef at Lavendou, then worked for the Lombardi family before opening his own eponymous place in 2009. He knows his sauces and makes a stellar steak and frites, but he also recognizes the power of a simple salad whose ingredients are carefully procured. That said, no need to worry: There is pate, onion soup, foie gras, there is even cassoulet with white beans, lamb, sausage and duck. Cadot was once a pastry chef, so it’s imperative to save room for dessert, especially with options like profiteroles, souffles and apple tart. Or maybe the cheese plate. Or maybe both.